Red wine braised Pioppino.

Pioppino has a naturally deep, earthy, almost winey flavour, which makes red wine an obvious partner rather than a clever one. Brown the clusters, soften shallots in the fat, then reduce wine and stock down to a glaze that clings.

Forty minutes, and the result sits next to a steak or on top of polenta without embarrassment.

What you need

Mushrooms

• 1 lb pioppino, clusters separated
• 2 tbsp olive oil
• 2 tbsp butter, plus 2 tbsp to finish

Braise

• 4 shallots, halved
• 4 garlic cloves, whole and crushed
• 1 cup red wine
• ¾ cup mushroom or beef stock
• 4 thyme sprigs
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tsp sherry vinegar
• Salt, coarse black pepper

To finish

• Chopped parsley
• Flaky salt

Method

1. Separate the clusters and trim the bases, keeping the long stems intact — they are the reason this species works in liquid.
2. Dry-sear in a wide heavy pan, 4 minutes untouched, until browned. Work in two batches if crowded. Remove.
3. Add oil and 2 tbsp butter, then the shallots cut-side down and the garlic. Cook 6 minutes until the shallots are caramelised on the cut face.
4. Deglaze with the wine, scraping everything up, and reduce by half — about 4 minutes.
5. Return the mushrooms, add the stock, thyme and bay, and simmer uncovered 18–20 minutes until the liquid has reduced to a syrupy glaze.
6. Off the heat, swirl in the last 2 tbsp of butter and the sherry vinegar. The sauce should turn glossy and coat the mushrooms.
7. Finish with parsley, flaky salt and a lot of coarse pepper.

Brown first, always

Pioppino’s flavour is built in the Maillard stage. Put it straight into wine and you get a perfectly pleasant braised mushroom that tastes mostly of wine; brown it hard first and the dish has a savoury base the liquid can sit on. This is true of every mushroom braise and it is the step most often skipped.

Reduce further than feels comfortable. You want a glaze that clings to the stems, not a broth. If in doubt, take it another three minutes.

Wine choice

Something with structure — a cheap Côtes du Rhône, a Chianti, a Malbec. Avoid anything jammy and sweet, which reduces to a sticky mess. It does not need to be good wine, but it should be wine you would drink.

What to put it with

On soft polenta, which is the best pairing. Alongside a steak. Over a white bean purée. On toast with a soft cheese. Or folded into the ragù as a shortcut to depth.

Common questions